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Wednesday, April 29, 2020

JOURNAL OF THE PLAGUE YEAR (3)

In my wanderings around the Fifth Quarter of the World - "The World, according to the best geographers, is divided into Europe, Asia, Africa, America and Romney Marsh" (Rev. Richard Barham) I tend to avoid the coast around Dymchurch during the holiday period, from Easter until late August. This is because the little town, or large village, is the magnet for daily  and seasonal holidaymakers. The first because it is so accessible from the towns of East Kent and the second because there is a number of large residential caravan parks in the vicinity.

However, during this Easter week I decided to cycle the 15 miles down to it to see how the "lockdown" was affecting it.

The lanes I cycled on the way were absolutely deserted by the usual traffic, making my journey pleasantly quiet and brought back memories of my early cycling days in the 1950s. But, on reaching Dymchurch I found it a ghost town, with all shops closed and shuttered and very little traffic in a High Street, which at this time of year, is usually quite difficult to cross.


Of course my usual cafe was amongst all those closures, but I had allowed for this and packed a raspberry jam sandwich and banana (the ultimate in naturally self-packaged cycling snacks) along with a flask of coffee, laced, as usual, with whiskey.

I rode up onto the sea wall to sit and eat my elevenses and viewed the sands which in Easter week would normally be teeming with holidaymakers. I could just make out one man and his dog.


 The sea wall is usually a favourite promenade, but this year, no one



Quite eery, really. I felt alone in a deserted world and it is not something I would ever wish for again, in spite of being a solitary and natural avoider of noisy crowds.



10 comments:

Tom Stephenson said...

I love the feel of the old towns and areas of the South East. I briefly lived in it in 1971. So different to the South West. I always think of The Scarecrow when I hear of Dimchurch.

Avus said...

Tom:
Ah! A follower of Russell Thorndyke's Dr. Syn.

Tom Stephenson said...

A listener to the radio adaptations only, I am afraid.

Vita said...

Oh, my oh my oh my! So very empty and eerie. Thank you for the virtual travel trip, including elevenses. I enjoyed your ride.

Avus said...

Vita:
Thanks for your company! I hope you are enjoying the rest of Emma Batten's books about The Marsh? I am sending her "Dungeness Saga" trilogy to my daughter-in-Oz for her birthday as she, too is a Marsh fan and collects "hag stones" at Dungeness whenever she is over here - we tend to combine her trips with a fish and chips lunch at The Pilot inn.

Dave said...

When I was out the other day on the bike I too thought back to the 50's and the quiet roads with little traffic, but I have noticed slightly more traffic recently, although certainly not back to normal levels.
That was a good lunch bag and the whiskey in the tea, a nice touch, especially with the cold winds.

Avus said...

Dave:

A kindred spirit! I would very much like to go back to 50s cycling as far as traffic levels were concerned. But I prefer today's cycling kit/equipment. It is only the development of ebikes that has enabled me to continue cycling

Roderick Robinson said...

You were wise not to claim - or even imply - that The Plague had somehow improved Dymchurch. Detachment from the world's woes can only be taken so far before bystanders start hurling stones.

I suspect you have an underlying belief that my trade has left me an unreconstructed cynic. You may be right, if only on High Days and holidays. One of my profoundest antipathies centres on the inability of many people to express what is going on in their mind; thus the complete pointlessness of the vox pop. interviews so familiar on TV news, especially the regional sort.

But The Plague has changed all that. Time after time people who have stared into the abyss in some form or another have recounted their ordeals in the simplest and most telling prose without resort to cliché or - worse still - received wisdom. This touches on my line of business and I can't emphasise how rare it is. Yet I am moved time after time. One might have expected such plain articulacy from professionals like doctors but this gift of tongues - always to the point and never excessive - seems to apply universally. Nobody poses, simpers or strains for words outside their normal vocabulary.

Can this be regarded as a kind of blessing? In one sense yes. Often we retrospectively regret our public shows of emotion. We feel we haven't done justice to what we experienced. These interviewees may take unusual comfort when reviewing their video clips.

Avus said...

RR:

Well, I suppose that a good journalist must always contain a touch of cycicism, it enables them to delve deeper and examine theirselves and all the others.

I do agree that genarally personal reports from the plague front seem to be measured.

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